TRAVEL GUIDES
OUR GUIDE TO COSTA BRAVA
BAIX EMPORDA
Welcome to our Costa Brava travel list, our very first guide, and a destination that holds a special place in our hearts.
We had a bit of a dilemma, torn between keeping this paradise a hidden gem and sharing its secrets with our friends. But you know what they say, sharing is caring… So here goes!
The first thing to know about the Costa Brava (which translates as “wild coast”) is its dual nature: there’s the captivating coastline with its rocky cliffs overlooking emerald clear waters, and the serene rural Emporda countryside. Both parts are composed of ancient fishing and stone villages, each with their own distinct character.
In this region, you'll find numerous charming spots without any flashy extravagance. Here, we are not particularly interested in luxury, but we do value quality. The charm lies in an elegant simplicity - a place rich in heritage and landscapes, where we savor a slow life relaxing in small coves and eating every day the most flavorful tomatoes (so sweet, that they could pass as dessert)!
“All year long, we find ourselves daydreaming of the Catalan shores, eagerly awaiting for those cherished summer days to return.”
Where to Stay
Mas de Torrent is the go-to, reliable and most luxurious choice, blending traditional charm and modern amenities in a restored 18th-century Catalan farmhouse. We love enjoying a small aperitivo on their beautiful terrace before dinner, and it’s an ideal location as you are close to many villages but still feel in the middle of nowhere.
Torrent, Costa Brava
From 250€ per night
Begur, Costa Brava
We discovered this adults-only boutique hotel in Begur about two summers ago. It's an old townhouse renovated by Quintana Partners, with eight rooms - all with a particular universe. At La Bionda, you’ll be in the center of a village but also close to many beaches like Aiguablava, Sa Riera or Cala Fonda.
From 150€ per night
Very simple, but in the most charming way possible. Ines’ family stayed here once and they had a great stay. The pool area is an absolute dream - it feels as if you were in your own Spanish Masia. The village of Madremanya is quiet and cute-as-a-button kind of small with one nice restaurant ‘La Plaça’ which we love to go to for dinner.
From 150€ per night
Madremanya, Costa Brava
Emporda, Costa Brava
Without a doubt the number one agency in the region. Every single house from Viu Emporda is unique. They are all carefully selected by Pablo, the founder, who is always on hand to assist guests together with his team and can arrange any trips or special experiences desired.
From 250€ per night
Aiguafreda, Costa Brava
A cherished spot for us! While we haven't stayed at the hotel, we adore dining at Sa Rascassa. It's accessible by boat or car, offering delicious local food, friendly staff, and an intimate ambiance. You can dine either on the garden patio or if you are a guest there is also a terrace facing the sea. (Only 5 rooms at the hotel.)
From 180€ per night
L’Escala, Costa Brava
HOSTAL EMPURIES, HOTEL
While we haven't had the chance to experience a stay at Hostal Spa Empúries, we heard through family that it's an excellent choice for unwinding. It's a bit farther north from our usual Costa Brava but its location neighbors the Greek and Roman ruins of Empúries. Moreover, the spa facilities appear to be top-notch!
From 180€ per night
CASA NERETA, HOTEL
Cadaques, Costa Brava
From 200€ per night
Once a summer, we try to escape to the higher Emporda to spend a night or two in Cadaques. We’ve always been too late in our bookings to get Casa Nereta but the boutique hotel is definitely on the wish list for future trips to come! The property is close to Platja Port d'Alguer, Platja de Portlligat and Salvador Dali's House.
MAS PASTORA, HOTEL
Llafranc, Costa Brava
From 110€ per night
This hotel is placed in the sea village of Llafranc, a very good location to pick if you want to be close to the water. It is also adults only, calm and comfortable. The style of the hotel is rural and minimalist with stone walls, a lounge pool and large gardens.
CAP SA SAL, HOTEL
Aiguafreda, Costa Brava
And here is one final recommendation: Cap Sa Sal! It offers a more modern ambiance compared to our other choices and the view is absolutely breathtaking. There's a restaurant right by the sea where we love to catch the sunset and drinks. Friends who've spent a night at Cap Sa Sal had a wonderful experience.
From 180€ per night
What to do
CALELLA DE PALAFRUGELL
Starting off with a personal touch: Calella is where Ines spent most of her childhood summers. This fishing village’s picturesque beauty is undeniable with 8 tiny beaches, quaint white houses and colourful boats. From Calella you can take the ‘Camino de Ronda’ trail leading to the neighboring village of Llafranc.
Calella de Palafrugell, Costa Brava
LLAFRANC
Similar but different from Calella, Llafranc is also charming with its single crescent-shaped beach. It is maybe more residential but full of life! You can go and spend the day at the beach (it tends to be very busy during the summer) or explore it before dinner time walking through the main seaside promenade.
Llafranc, Costa Brava
Let’s move from the sea into the land and explore the interior villages of the Emporda. Our first one is Pals. Located at the top of a hill, Pals has panoramic views over the fields. It has kept all its medieval walls and watchtowers, making it a historical legacy. We suggest going there at the end of the day for an ice-cream.
Pals, Costa Brava
PALS
BEGUR
Begur stands out as a popular little town due to its proximity to numerous beaches and coves. On Wednesday mornings, the village comes alive with the market and throughout summer evenings, the streets are bustling with people strolling, enjoying drinks and shopping - if you’re looking for souvenirs, this is the spot!
Begur, Costa Brava
S’AGARO
S'Agaró sets itself apart from the rest of Costa Brava. Its historic villas create an air reminiscent of the Italian Riviera, while still being very Spanish. Don't miss the coastal walk that starts from San Pol Beach (grab a nice lunch here) and leads to Sa Conca. Oh, and the church is another beautiful spot you shouldn't miss!
S’Agaro, Costa Brava
MONELLS
Monells, Costa Brava
Monells is a village with distinct character. Although quite small, it holds a unique charm and has served as the backdrop for numerous Spanish movies. At the heart of the square, you'll find a few traditional restaurants perfect for enjoying a cold "caña" and indulging in Catalan meat dishes.
PERATALLADA
Here's another favorite of ours! Peratallada is a unique village with charming old stone houses. It's usually less crowded than Pals and, in our opinion, offers even better food options, especially at our beloved restaurant Cala Nena.
Peratallada, Costa Brava
Cadaques, Costa Brava
CADAQUES
Cadaqués is a coastal gem renowned for its whitewashed buildings and stunning sea views. Its artistic spirit and bohemian atmosphere have attracted creatives for generations. You can go to spend the day exploring its winding streets, but we'd definitely recommend staying for one or two nights to also explore Cap de Creus.
DALI’S HOUSE
Exploring Dalí's house in Portlligat is like stepping into one of his paintings - where reality and imagination blend seamlessly.. When you visit, you'll feel his deep affection for Cadaqués and insights into his artistic experiments and his life. Make sure to buy tickets in advance and arrive 15 minutes before your entrance time!
Cadaques, Costa Brava
Pubol, Costa Brava
GALA’S HOUSE
This residence was gifted by Dali to his muse Gala. The place itself is a blend of medieval and modern architecture, creating a unique atmosphere that mirrors the couple’s eccentricity. We recommend doing a guided tour followed by a visit of Pubol, a stop at Caterina Roma’s ceramic shop and lunch at Es!Carxofa.
Palau de Casavells is a place we absolutely adore. Transformed from a farmhouse into a gallery, this location radiates beauty. They have a great selection of renowned and up-and-coming Spanish and International artists (Eduardo Chillida, Laurent Martin Lo…), and the curation of art changes frequently.
Casavells, Costa Brava
PALAU DE CASAVELLS, MUSEUM
BIKE IN THE EMPORDA
Emporda, Costa Brava
The Empordà is a paradise for cyclists. You can pedal in different landscapes: on the hills of the coast with impresive sea views, or in the interior of the countryside around wheat fields and vineyards. Some paths are more difficult than others but there are plenty of options depending on your ideal journey.
Costa Brava
EXPLORE THE COVES
Opting for a boat excursion to explore the Costa Brava is a decision you won't regret. It's a total game-changer, opening the door to hidden coves that are only reachable by boat. To truly embrace the spirit of the Costa Brava, we recommend embarking on a classic wooden Menorquina boat.
Camino de Ronda, Costa Brava
WALK ALONG THE COAST
The 'Camino de Ronda' is a walking trail that goes all along the Costa Brava coastline. It's a special path that lets you walk right by the sea, and you can start or stop wherever you want. If you enjoy hiking, you will love discovering the region through this walk with the most beautiful ocean views.
JARDINS DE CAP ROIG , FESTIVAL
Golfet, Costa Brava
Cap Roig is a botanical garden perched on a hill overlooking the sea. During summer, it transforms into a music festival venue, welcoming renowned singers. Make sure to grab tickets early as they tend to sell out quickly. We were lucky enough to catch Norah Jones performing this year. The experience was breathtaking!
MAS OLLER, WINE TASTING
Torrent, Costa Brava
Mas Oller is our favourite wine from the region! The winery tour is very intimate and interesting and Elena (the tour guide) is truly fantastic; her passion is infectious. You’ll discover a wine with distinct taste given by the grapes that thrive near the sea. And, a little gossip: Cameron Diaz crafts her wine right here!
What to Taste
Our favorite restaurant to have dinner. They start with a friendly chupito of Bloody Mary and serve different dishes made from local ingredients: amazing tomatoes, meat, their special orquestra de calamar, and a the delicious Cala Nena lasagna. Save some space for dessert – the Bombetes are a must-try!
Peratallada, Costa Brava
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Comedor Verdor offers an extraordinary experience. It’s difficult to get a table and no requests beyond the menu are allowed. Yet, it's in our top 3 ever! With just a few simple dishes: salad, tuna, burger, or pasta, you can experience so many flavours. Share everything! (Hidden in bamboo, and cash-only)
Pals, Costa Brava
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Calella, Costa Brava
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Margarita is our new go-to in Calella. Even though it's an Italian restaurant, we're always drawn to their fish of the day, which never fails to impress – consistently excellent. Their unique salads are a hit as well. Our personal favorites are the courgette and watermelon salads – they're a must-share!
As soon as you sit, you’ll have to follow the "pan con tomate" ritual. Just take a piece of bread, halve a garlic clove and a tomato, rub them on the bread, then drizzle olive oil and sprinkle salt – simple, but so good. This spot is all about meat and timeless Catalan cuisine. Our top pick? The lamb chops – an absolute must-try!
San Feliu de Boada, Costa Brava
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Torroella, Costa Brava
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Mas Sorrer, a once-beloved 'hippie spot', is the ideal destination for vibrant evenings. To reach the restaurant, you'll follow a path surrounded by sunflowers. Though it was once a real hidden gem, over time, today it has gained popularity and expanded. Check their event agenda for music performances.
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A really romantic and cosy spot tucked away in the little village of Madremanya. The restaurant is part of a hotel. At La Plaça, you'll find a quality choice of wines, along with jamón serrano, sardines, and foie gras. But before you eat, take a short walk in their private garden.
Madremanya, Costa Brava
Llafranc, Costa Brava
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Great views, sunsets, and a mix of Japanese-Spanish flavors. This fusion restaurant is located on top of a mountain inside a lighthouse. Arrive a bit early for a drink before dinner then get an outdoor table by the cliff facing the sea. While Nomo has other locations, Far Nomo is the one to go to – reserve ahead!
A cherished spot for us! While we haven't stayed at the hotel, we adore dining at Sa Rascassa. It's accessible by boat or car, offering delicious local food, friendly staff, and an intimate ambiance. You can dine either on the garden patio or if you are a guest there is also a terrace facing the sea. (Only 5 rooms at the hotel.)
Aiguafreda, Costa Brava
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Situated in one of Costa Brava's finest waterfront spots, Toc al Mar offers an unparalleled view of the sea. The tables are consistently occupied year after year, service after service. So, if you can go before July, it's even better. We went with our families recently and had a great time. Don't miss their fish or the arroz caldoso.
Aiguablava, Costa Brava
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S’Agaro, Costa Brava
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La Taverna del Mar offers a delicious gastronomic menu or a la carte seafood options right on the beach of San Pol in S'Agaro. It's an elegant spot that used to have a dress code excluding men in swimsuits. Our meals here tend to be with long lunches that lead to enjoyable "sobre mesa" moments.
Sa Riera, Costa Brava
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La Gandula is a nice "chiringuito" beach restaurant nestled on Sa Riera Beach. It's a good spot to have some tapas and drinks in the summer. By day, you can rent their sunbeds for a relaxing beach experience. When the sun sets, keep an eye on their Instagram for special nights featuring oysters and DJ-hosted events.
Pals, Costa Brava
UM in Pals is another chiringuito worth trying. Set on the long beach of Pals, it's simple and rustic. Get a cerveza along with their delicious homemade guacamole. You can also make a day of it by renting a sunbed. They don't take reservations, but their kitchen is open all day.
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Cadaques, Costa Brava
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The gourmet superstar of Costa brava. Compartir proposes a creative cuisine in a spacious wood and stone patio. The emphasis is on large yet high quality dishes that are meant for sharing (‘compartir’ in Spanish). The perfect place if you are looking for interesting dishes and fine dining.
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We have been returning to this restaurant regularly over the past years and they always maintain their excellent standards. The wine list and food (particularly the fish) are exceptional and the staff very professional. The restaurant is all interior but it has beautiful views. -Booking advised.
Cadaques, Costa Brava
Cadaques, Costa Brava
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Cap de Creus restaurant is hidden in the nature reserve. You can only drive through this stunning landscape with a reservation. The sharp cliffs, coves, and wind-carved rocks set the scene. You'd never expect a curry spot here, but it's surprisingly perfect! By night, it turns into a magical spot – trust us, the journey is worth it.
Calella, Costa Brava
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Tragamar, the quintessential Calella de Palafrugell restaurant, stands as a timeless icon. Open year-round and graced with the finest views of Canadell beach, this spot serves up a Mediterranean menu. A proud member of the Tragaluz restaurant group from Barcelona, Tragamar is nothing short of an institution.
ISABELLA’S, RESTAURANT
Isabella's Llafranc is a fresh addition to the Llafranc dining scene. With its unique interior design, it stands out from the typical Costa Brava look. The menu features simple Mediterranean dishes. For the best experience, we recommend choosing a seat on the interior terrace – the table on the far right side is our top pick.
Llafranc, Costa Brava
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TALLA, RESTAURANT
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Talla is in our ‘to visit’ list for our upcoming trips to Cadaqués. We've heard great things about the food, and the location looks simply fantastic – right along the main sea walk of Cadaqués. We can't wait to experience it! (We'll definitely share our thoughts, or feel free to share yours if you've been there).
Cadaques, Costa Brava
Begur, Costa Brava
CLARA, RESTAURANT
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We haven't had the chance to visit Clara yet but the word on the street is promising. People speak highly of the nice ambiance, great vibes, the good food and cocktails. Begur is always a good idea if you are seeking a more lively and buzzy dining experience. We're definitely excited to give it a try soon!
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