TRAVEL GUIDES

OUR GUIDE TO COSTA BRAVA

(around the BAIX EMPORDà)

Boats on a sandy beach near white buildings by the ocean at sunset.

Welcome to our Costa Brava travel list, our very first guide, and a destination that holds a special place in our hearts. We spend every summer here and can say with confidence this is one of the regions of the world we know best, and our favourite too!

We had a bit of a dilemma, torn between keeping this paradise a hidden gem and sharing its secrets with our friends. But you know what they say, sharing is caring… So here goes!

The first thing to know about the Costa Brava (which translates as “wild coast”) is its dual nature: there’s the captivating coastline with its small coves , rocky cliffs and pine trees overlooking emerald clear waters, and then, there is the quiet rural Emporda: the inlands of Costa Brava. Both parts are composed of ancient fishing and stone villages, each with their own distinct character.

In this region, you'll find numerous beautiful spots without any flashy extravagance. Here, we are not particularly interested in luxury, but we do value quality. The charm lies in an elegant simplicity, a place rich in heritage and landscapes, where we savor a slow life relaxing in small beaches, driving around and eating every day the most flavorful tomatoes (so sweet, that they could pass as dessert)!

Costa Brava

2023

Costa Brava 2023

Open window with wooden shutters overlooking a lush green mountain landscape, with a cushioned window seat with pillows and an open book.

Where to Stay

What to Do

What to Taste

Where to Stay

Living room with white stone vaulted ceiling, fireplace, wood logs, armchair, side table with candles, lamp, and decorative items.

Mas de Torrent is the go-to, reliable and most luxurious choice, blending traditional charm and modern amenities in a restored 18th-century Catalan farmhouse. We love enjoying a small aperitivo on their beautiful terrace before dinner, and it’s an ideal location as you are close to many villages but still feel in the middle of nowhere.

Torrent, Costa Brava

From 250€ per night

Sunlit outdoor patio with wooden dining table and wicker chairs, large umbrellas, greenery, and trees in the background.

Begur, Costa Brava

We discovered this adults-only boutique hotel in Begur some summers ago. It's an old townhouse renovated by Quintana Partners, with eight rooms: each with a particular universe. At La Bionda, you’ll be in the center of a village but also close to many beaches like Aiguablava, Sa Riera or Cala Fonda.

From 150€ per night

A stone building on a hill with lavender plants and a small fountain in the foreground, surrounded by green trees and a blue sky.

Very simple, but in the most charming way possible. Ines’ family stayed here once and they had a great stay. The pool area is an absolute dream: it feels as if you were in your own Spanish Masia. The village of Madremanya is quiet and cute-as-a-button kind of small with one nice restaurant ‘La Plaça’ which we love to go to for dinner.

From 150€ per night

Madremanya, Costa Brava

Interior view of a rustic room with wooden flooring, white walls, a small window, and a desk with a chair, viewed through a doorway. A small table with a vase of dried flowers is on the left.

Emporda, Costa Brava

Without a doubt the number one agency in the region. Every single house from Viu Emporda is unique. They are all carefully selected by Pablo, the founder, who is always on hand to assist guests together with his team and can arrange any trips or special experiences desired.

From 250€ per night

Outdoor restaurant with tables set for dining, surrounded by lush green trees and plants, including a large tree providing shade.

Aiguafreda, Costa Brava

A cherished spot for us! While we haven't stayed at the hotel, we adore dining at Sa Rascassa. It's accessible by boat or car, offering delicious local food, friendly staff, and an intimate ambiance. You can dine either on the garden patio or if you are a guest there is also a terrace facing the sea. (Only 5 rooms at the hotel.) Small 2025 Update: the restaurant changed owners and unfortunately the dishes lost a bit of quality… it is still a very nice place to go but not the 10/10 food as before, shame…

From 180€ per night

Dining table set with wine glasses, cutlery, and napkins overlooking a beach with parasols and the ocean.

While we haven't had the chance to stay the nigh at Hostal Spa Empúries, we come every now and then to eat at their restaurant or their chiringuito by the beach. It's a bit farther north from our usual Costa Brava but its location neighbors the Greek and Roman ruins of Empúries which are also nice to see. Moreover, the spa facilities appear to be top-notch! 

L’Escala, Costa Brava

HOSTAL EMPURIES, HOTEL

From 180€ per night

Living room with white sofa and pillows, wooden coffee table with candles, white butterfly chairs, fireplace with framed art, decorative wall art, and wooden doorway.

CASA NERETA, HOTEL

Once a summer, we try to escape to the higher Emporda to spend a night or two in Cadaques. We’ve always been too late in our bookings to get Casa Nereta but the boutique hotel is definitely on the wish list for future trips to come! The property is close to Platja Port d'Alguer, Platja de Portlligat and Salvador Dali's House.

Cadaques, Costa Brava

From 200€ per night

Outdoor patio seating area with wooden furniture, purple flowers, surrounded by lush green foliage and climbing plants, under a pergola with hanging lights.

MAS PASTORA, HOTEL

This hotel is placed in the sea village of Llafranc, a very good location to pick if you want to be close to the water. It is also adults only, calm and comfortable. The style of the hotel is rural and minimalist with stone walls, a lounge pool and large gardens.

Llafranc, Costa Brava

From 110€ per night

Swimming pool overlooking the ocean at sunset or sunrise with hills in the background.

CAP SA SAL, HOTEL

And here is one final recommendation: Cap Sa Sal! It offers a more modern ambiance compared to our other choices and the view is absolutely breathtaking. There's a restaurant right by the sea where we love to catch the sunset and drinks. This one is a little bit on the touristy side but the views are really stunning. Friends who've spent a night at Cap Sa Sal had a wonderful experience.

Aiguafreda, Costa Brava

From 180€ per night

What to do

calella-de-palafrugell-costa-brava-guide-local

Starting off with a personal touch: Calella is where Ines spent most of her childhood summers. This fishing village’s picturesque beauty is undeniable with 8 tiny beaches, quaint white houses and colourful boats. From Calella you can take the ‘Camino de Ronda’ trail leading to the neighboring village of Llafranc.

CALELLA DE PALAFRUGELL

Calella de Palafrugell, Costa Brava

View of the ocean through an open window with a tiled ledge, decorated with pillows, a glass of water, a hat, and a plate of fruit, overlooking green trees.

Similar but different from Calella, Llafranc is also charming with its single crescent-shaped beach. It is maybe more residential but full of life! You can go and spend the day at the beach (it tends to be very busy during the summer) or explore it before dinner time walking through the main seaside promenade.

LLAFRANC

Llafranc, Costa Brava

A narrow stone alleyway in a rustic village, with arched stone entrances, potted plants, and a wooden bridge overhead.

Let’s move from the sea into the land and explore the interior villages of the Emporda. Our first one is Pals. Located at the top of a hill, Pals has panoramic views over the fields. It has kept all its medieval walls and watchtowers, making it a historical legacy. We suggest going there at the end of the day for an ice-cream.

Pals, Costa Brava

PALS

Narrow street lined with old buildings with textured walls, a small balcony, and a lantern hanging from the left side, with a clear blue sky above.

Begur stands out as a popular little town due to its proximity to numerous beaches and coves. On Wednesday mornings, the village comes alive with the market and throughout summer evenings, the streets are bustling with people strolling, enjoying drinks and shopping - if you’re looking for souvenirs, this is the spot! Nowadays there is a lot of people in the summer (many french and british people) but it’s still a must visit.

BEGUR

Begur, Costa Brava

People taking photos and enjoying the view at a coastal overlook with a small white pavilion with a red roof, surrounded by tall green trees and rocky cliffs, overlooking the ocean.

S'Agaró sets itself apart from the rest of Costa Brava. Its historic villas create an air reminiscent of the Italian Riviera, while still being very Spanish. Don't miss the coastal walk that starts from San Pol Beach (grab a nice lunch here) and leads to Sa Conca. Oh, and the church is another beautiful spot you shouldn't miss!

S’AGARO

S’Agaro, Costa Brava

Interior of a rustic restaurant or cafe with stone archways, wooden tables and chairs, and sunlight streaming through open arches, with a person sitting alone at one table.

Monells is a village with distinct character. Although quite small, it holds a unique charm and has served as the backdrop for numerous Spanish movies. At the heart of the square, you'll find a few traditional restaurants perfect for enjoying a cold "caña" and indulging in Catalan meat dishes. This one is more quiet and hidden than the others, very loved by bikers.

MONELLS

Monells, Costa Brava

Stone archway with green ivy and a red window, surrounded by purple flowering plants and old stone buildings in a quaint village street.

Here's another favorite of ours! Peratallada is a unique village with charming old stone houses. It's usually less crowded than Pals and, in our opinion, offers even better food options, especially at our beloved restaurant Cala Nena.

PERATALLADA

Peratallada, Costa Brava

A seaside town with white buildings and boats in the water, hillside in the background, and a church with a clock tower on a hill.

Cadaqués is a coastal gem renowned for its whitewashed buildings and stunning sea views. Its artistic spirit and bohemian atmosphere have attracted creatives for generations. You can go to spend the day exploring its winding streets, but we'd definitely recommend staying for one or two nights to also explore Cap de Creus.

Cadaques, Costa Brava

CADAQUES

White building with rounded domes and terracotta roof tiles, surrounded by trees and plants in a sunny outdoor setting.

Exploring Dalí's house in Portlligat is like stepping into one of his paintings, where reality and imagination blend seamlessly... When you visit, you'll feel his deep affection for Cadaqués and insights into his artistic experiments and his life. Make sure to buy tickets in advance and arrive 15 minutes before your entrance time!

DALI’S HOUSE

Cadaques, Costa Brava

A garden scene with a water feature in the foreground, sculptures and decorative architecture along a hedge in the background, and large green leaves hanging overhead.

This residence was gifted by Dali to his muse Gala. The place itself is a blend of medieval and modern architecture, creating a unique atmosphere that mirrors the couple’s eccentricity. We recommend doing a guided tour followed by a visit of Pubol, a stop at Caterina Roma’s ceramic shop and lunch at Es!Carxofa.

Pubol, Costa Brava

GALA’S HOUSE

A minimalistic art gallery with a white brick vaulted ceiling, small arched windows, and sparse decor. A large abstract mobile hangs from the ceiling, and a sculptural piece is displayed on a table in the center.

Palau de Casavells is a place we absolutely adore. Transformed from a farmhouse into a gallery, this location radiates beauty. They have a great selection of renowned and up-and-coming Spanish and International artists (Eduardo Chillida, Laurent Martin Lo…), and the curation of art changes frequently.

Casavells, Costa Brava

PALAU DE CASAVELLS, MUSEUM

A field with numerous large hay bales scattered across freshly harvested land under a partly cloudy sky.

The Empordà is a paradise for cyclists. You can pedal in different landscapes: on the hills of the coast with impresive sea views, or in the interior of the countryside around wheat fields and vineyards. Some paths are more difficult than others but there are plenty of options depending on your ideal journey.

BIKE IN THE EMPORDA

Emporda, Costa Brava

A small sailboat with a striped blue and white canopy sailing on calm blue waters near a coastline. There are three people on the boat, with one standing and two sitting.

Opting for a boat excursion to explore the Costa Brava is a decision you won't regret. It's a total game-changer, opening the door to hidden coves that are only reachable by boat. To truly embrace the spirit of the Costa Brava, we recommend embarking on a classic wooden Menorquina boat. You can rent them in Aiguablava.

Costa Brava

EXPLORE THE COVES

A stone pathway along the coast with trees and bushes, overlooking blue water with rocks.

The 'Camino de Ronda' is a walking trail that goes all along the Costa Brava coastline. It's a special path that lets you walk right by the sea, and you can start or stop wherever you want. If you enjoy hiking, you will love discovering the region through this walk with the most beautiful ocean views.

Camino de Ronda, Costa Brava

WALK ALONG THE COAST

A lush, landscaped garden with various trees and shrubs, overlooking the ocean in the background, with a white sculpture resembling intertwined rings on the ground and a small group of people gathered around a fire at night.

Cap Roig is a botanical garden perched on a hill overlooking the sea. During summer, it transforms into a music festival venue, welcoming renowned singers. Make sure to grab tickets early as they tend to sell out quickly. Through the years, we’ve been lucky enough to catch some incredible artists: Norah Jones and Michael Bubblé recently. The experience was breathtaking!

JARDINS DE CAP ROIG , FESTIVAL

Golfet, Costa Brava

Dried herbs hanging from a wall near wine barrels, with a vineyard and hills in the background.

Mas Oller is our favourite wine from the region! The winery tour is very intimate and interesting and Elena (the tour guide) is truly fantastic; her passion is infectious. You’ll discover a wine with distinct taste given by the grapes that thrive near the sea. And, a little gossip: Cameron Diaz crafts her wine right here!

MAS OLLER, WINE TASTING

Torrent, Costa Brava

What to Taste

Outdoor restaurant patio with wooden tables, chairs, potted plants, and umbrellas, surrounded by stone archways and historic stone buildings with balconies.

Our favorite restaurant to have dinner. They start with a friendly chupito of Bloody Mary and serve different dishes made from local ingredients: amazing tomatoes, meat, their special orquestra de calamar, and a the delicious Cala Nena lasagna. Save some space for dessert : the Bombetes are a must-try!

Peratallada, Costa Brava

€€€

A bamboo grove with tall, green bamboo stalks and leafy canopy, partially obscuring an outdoor dining area with tables and chairs, illuminated by spherical hanging lights.

Comedor Verdor offers a very unique experience. It’s difficult to get a table and no requests beyond the menu are allowed. Yet, it's in our top 3 ever! It’s owned by 2 women who keep it simple with just a few dishes: salad, tuna, burger, or pasta, you can experience so many flavours. The only drawback: the wine list could be better. Tip: order everything and share. (Tucked away in bamboo, and cash-only.)

Pals, Costa Brava

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Kitchen counter with bottles of wine, glasses, bowls of oranges and strawberries, bread basket, and a small lamp.

Calella, Costa Brava

€€

Margarita is one of our go-tos in Calella. Even though it's an Italian restaurant, we're always drawn to their fish of the day, which never fails to impress and is consistently excellent. Their unique salads are a hit as well. Our personal favorites are the courgette and watermelon salads, they're a must-share!

A quaint stone house with a black door, surrounded by greenery and pink flowers, partially visible on the right, with a potted plant and a bench outside.

As soon as you sit, you’ll have to follow the "pan con tomate" ritual. Just take a piece of bread, halve a garlic clove and a tomato, rub them on the bread, then drizzle olive oil and sprinkle salt. Simple, but so good. This spot is all about meat and timeless Catalan cuisine. Our top pick? The lamb chops are an absolute must-try!

San Feliu de Boada, Costa Brava

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Outdoor restaurant with wooden tables, colorful chairs, and woven pendant lights, set for dining with plates and glasses, stone walls and greenery in the background.

Torroella, Costa Brava

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Mas Sorrer, once a beloved ‘hippie spot’, is now more of a lively party destination than a hidden gem. Last year, the restaurant closed, and the venue now serves only drinks, accompanied by food trucks. It has lost some of its original charm but remains a great spot for a drink at sunset. Check their event agenda for music performances.

An outdoor dining table with a white tablecloth, set with empty plates, glasses, and napkins, illuminated by small table lamps, with an umbrella and lush green vegetation in the background.

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A really romantic and cosy spot tucked away in the little village of Madremanya. The restaurant is part of a hotel.  At La Plaça, you'll find a quality choice of wines, along with jamón serrano, sardines, and foie gras. But before you eat, take a short walk in their private garden.

Madremanya, Costa Brava

Outdoor dining area with tables set for a meal, surrounded by chairs, overlooking a body of water in the distance, with a trellis and string lights overhead.

Llafranc, Costa Brava

€€

Great views, sunsets, and a mix of Japanese-Spanish flavors. This fusion restaurant is loved by locals and people from Barcelona, located on top of a mountain inside a lighthouse. Arrive a bit early for a drink before dinner then get an outdoor table by the cliff facing the sea. While Nomo has other locations, Far Nomo is the one to go to. Reserve ahead!

Outdoor restaurant seating area with tables, chairs, glasses, and umbrellas surrounded by greenery and trees.

A cherished spot for us! While we haven't stayed at the hotel, we adore dining at Sa Rascassa. It's accessible by boat or car, offering delicious local food, friendly staff, and an intimate ambiance. You can dine either on the garden patio or if you are a guest there is also a terrace facing the sea. (Only 5 rooms at the hotel.)

Aiguafreda, Costa Brava

€€

A seaside outdoor dining table with various drinks, plates, food, a phone, and a scenic view of the ocean, cliffs, and trees under a clear blue sky.

Situated in one of Costa Brava's finest waterfront spots, Toc al Mar offers an unparalleled view of the sea. The tables are consistently occupied year after year, service after service. So, if you can go before July, it's even better. We wgo often with our families and even celebrated our pre-wedding celebration there. Don't miss their fish or the arroz caldoso.

Aiguablava, Costa Brava

€€€

Seafront dining area with table set for a meal, open blue windows, sea view, candles, and minimalist decor.

S’Agaro, Costa Brava

€€€

La Taverna del Mar offers a delicious gastronomic menu or a la carte seafood options right on the beach of San Pol in S'Agaro. It's an elegant spot that used to have a dress code excluding men in swimsuits. Our meals here tend to be with long lunches that lead to enjoyable "sobre mesa" moments.

People dining at an outdoor restaurant with a wooden structure and hanging woven lamps, near the beach with the ocean visible in the background on a clear sunny day.

Sa Riera, Costa Brava

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La Gandula is a nice "chiringuito" beach restaurant nestled on Sa Riera Beach. It's a good spot to have some tapas and drinks in the summer. By day, you can rent their sunbeds for a relaxing beach experience. When the sun sets, keep an eye on their Instagram for special nights featuring oysters and DJ-hosted events.

Outdoor beachside restaurant with wooden tables and chairs, some chairs have star patterns, overlooking the ocean with people swimming, and an island in the distance.

Pals, Costa Brava

UM in Pals is another chiringuito worth trying. Set on the long beach of Pals, it's simple and rustic. Get a cerveza along with their delicious homemade guacamole. You can also make a day of it by renting a sunbed. They don't take reservations, but their kitchen is open all day.

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A cozy dining area with a rustic stone wall, a large window looking into a garden, and a mixture of chairs, some with cushions, around a table set with plates and glasses.

Cadaques, Costa Brava

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The gourmet superstar of Costa brava. Compartir proposes a creative cuisine in a spacious wood and stone patio. The emphasis is on large yet high quality dishes that are meant for sharing (‘compartir’ in Spanish). The perfect place if you are looking for interesting dishes and fine dining.

A small dining table set for two with white tablecloth, cloth napkins, wine glasses, and utensils, overlooking a beach and colorful buildings through open windows.

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We have been returning to this restaurant regularly over the past years and they always maintain their excellent standards. The wine list and food  (particularly the fish) are exceptional and the staff very professional. The restaurant is all interior but it has  beautiful views. -Booking advised.

Cadaques, Costa Brava

A wooden table with four glasses of white wine, a bottle of wine, some cutlery, and a reservation sign, overlooking a rocky coastline and the ocean during sunset.

Cadaques, Costa Brava

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Cap de Creus restaurant is hidden in the nature reserve. You can only drive through this stunning landscape with a reservation. The sharp cliffs, coves, and wind-carved rocks set the scene. You'd never expect a curry spot here, but it's surprisingly perfect! By night, it turns into a magical spot. Trust us, the journey is worth it.

Dining table set near a large, arched window with ocean view, sailboat in the distance, and a bottle of wine with glasses on the table.

Calella, Costa Brava

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Tragamar, the quintessential Calella de Palafrugell restaurant, stands as a timeless icon. Open year-round and graced with the finest views of Canadell beach, this spot serves up a Mediterranean menu. A proud member of the Tragaluz restaurant group from Barcelona, Tragamar is nothing short of an institution.

Interior of a beachside restaurant or cafe with outdoor seating, decorated with plants and umbrellas, overlooking the water.

ISABELLA’S, RESTAURANT

Isabella's Llafranc is a fresh addition to the Llafranc dining scene. With its unique interior design, it stands out from the typical Costa Brava look. The menu features simple Mediterranean dishes. For the best experience, we recommend choosing a seat on the interior terrace. The table on the far right side is our top pick.

Llafranc, Costa Brava

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A seaside dining setup with two white chairs and a small wooden table overlooking the water. The table is set with two wine glasses, two plates, silverware, a water bottle, and two small glasses, with a scenic view of a harbor and buildings in the background.

Talla is in our ‘to visit’ list for our upcoming trips to Cadaqués. We've heard great things about the food, and the location looks simply fantastic: right along the main sea walk of Cadaqués. We can't wait to experience it! (We'll definitely share our thoughts, or feel free to share yours if you've been there).

TALLA, RESTAURANT

Cadaques, Costa Brava

€€

A pink and white historic mansion viewed through trees, with multiple windows and a tower on top.

Clara is the perfect place to go with a group of friends. There’s a good ambiance, great vibes, good food and cocktails. Get many things to share and for those who like anchovies, these are the best!! Begur is always a good idea if you are seeking a more lively and buzzy dining experience.

Begur, Costa Brava

CLARA, RESTAURANT

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Outdoor dining tables with glass bottles and glasses, overlooking a rocky waterfront with a hillside town in the background on a partly cloudy day.

SOL I MAR

Calella de Palafrugell, Costa Brava

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A tiny restaurant with 4 tables on the street in front of the Port Bo beach. Ines used to come here all the time with her grandfather a little kid. At the time, Antonio was the owner. He retired and let the restaurant to her daughter Sonia and her husband. Since they took over the establishment completely boomed and its always fully booked. They kept the soul of the place intact but made the quality of the dishes even better. The best place to eat in Calella nowadays!

A cozy dining corner with a high wooden table set for four, surrounded by five metallic stools. An orange pendant light hangs above the table, casting warm light. The back wall features beige curtains covering a window, with shelves above displaying rows of wine bottles and decorative jars.

TROZO DE OSO

Sa Riera Costa Brava

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This isn’t your typical Costa Brava restaurant; it feels more at home in Barcelona, or even Copenhagen or Paris. It’s the perfect spot in Sa Riera if you’re looking for something Spanish with a more experimental, alternative twist. Every dish we tried was excellent, and the natural wine selection is equally impressive. The modern design adds a surprising contrast to the setting.

A round dining table set for a meal with white tablecloth, plates, wine glasses, water glasses, and a white vase with flowers in a bright restaurant with large windows and natural light.

TORRE DE NURA

Torrent, Costa Brava

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A new gem we found recently and fell in love with. This place is not fancy, located outside a main road (so you hear some cars passing by if you’re seated outside), but it is super authentic and most of all De-li-cious! Literally, every single dish is good here: the steak tartar , their brioche with white gamba, the eggs with sobrasada…. If you want to eat well, go!

An outdoor dining area at dusk with a large tree wrapped in string lights, a white table set with wine glasses, plates, and utensils, and wicker chairs around the table.

Trattoria Olimpia

Monells, Costa Brava

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The nicest couple Emidio and Lluis opened this italian trattoria in the little town of Monells not too long ago and its quickly become a new favourite. Whenever we’re in the mood for some real good italian pasta we always come here. They have a nice patio in the summer and in the winter a very cosy central table inside for groups. Everything is made with love here and you can really feel it.