TRAVEL GUIDES
OUR GUIDE TO MILAN
Cold, grey, and industrial… Milan is often described this way. But, after spending five formative years here, I can tell you it’s so much more than that! Sure, it may not be Venice, Rome or Florence, but Milan is a city that wins you over, offering a lifestyle hard to find anywhere else.
So, what’s this lifestyle about? It’s a perfect balance of working hard and playing harder. During the week, the quintessential after-work ritual of the aperitivo takes center stage: sipping a Negroni or Spritz with snacks that could double as dinner (hello, apericena), and soaking in the buzz of the city. Whether at an old-school bar or a trendy new spot, this is Milan at its finest, with people looking so sharp and elegant, that even the elderly could teach a masterclass in style. Then, come the weekend, the Milanese escape the city for quick getaways, to the sea, the countryside, the lakes or the mountains, all within an hour and a half by car. Non male!
For those who stay in the city, Milan reveals its beauty gradually. In the rhythm of daily life, it’s a city that grows on you with time. Built around its historic porte (ancient gates) in a circular layout, it’s surprisingly intimate and easy to navigate, feeling far more manageable than cities like Paris or New York.
Over the last decade, Milan has truly come into its own as a buzzing hub for fashion, art, and design. From the energy of Fashion Weeks to the explosion of creativity during Salone del Mobile, the city never stops evolving. (A little tip: plan ahead if you’re visiting during these events - hotels, restaurant spots and taxis disappear fast).
On a personal note, this is the city where Nils and I reconnected. It was a weekend that turned into something unforgettable. I showed him my favorite places, we wandered historic streets, and over drinks and food, we fell in love - not just with each other, but with Milan itself.
We hope this guide works its magic and has you falling just as hard.
Where to Stay
San Babila, Milan
From 200€ per night
Finding great value for money in a central location in Milan can be tricky, but Il Senato offers just that. It’s where my family has always stayed when visiting the city. The boutique hotel shines with its sophisticated design, where gold, and white dominate the aesthetic. At its core, Il Senato celebrates local craftsmanship, with furnishings crafted by Milanese artisans, making it a truly special place to stay.
Brera, Milan
From 1000€ per night
Ah, the Bulgari Hotel Milan. A little slice of heaven, perfect for escaping the city's madness: in summer, the garden; in winter, the cosy living room with the fire crackling. Always flawless, always impeccable, the Bulgari group never misses a beat when it comes to design and service. If you’re not staying, do yourself a favor: pop in for an aperitivo or treat yourself to Nikko Romito’s spaghetti pomodoro. It’s the best in town, hands down.
Montenapoleone, Milan
CROSSING MANZONI HOTEL
From 300€ per night
Crossing Manzoni is one of Milan’s newest boutique gems. We haven’t stayed there yet, but it’s small, stylish, and looks absolutely perfect. Incredibly well-situated for its price, it’s tucked inside a dreamy antique Milanese palazzo. If you’re a fashion lover, you’ll find yourself right in the heart of the Quadrilatero della Moda, with some of Milan’s most iconic sights just around the corner. A true hidden treasure in the city’s elegant core.
Missori , Milan
CASA BRIVIO
From 300€ per night
A small boutique hotel located in Via Olmetto. The creative concept of Casa Brivio has left nothing to chance and offers each guest the experience of a typical Milanese House furnished with iconic elements that have made the city’s design historyThe suites are conceived with a unique design. The furniture chosen is all by Cassina, the historic Italian brand.
Porta Ticinese, Milan
THE YARD / AETHOS HOTEL
From 300€ per night
In my mind this is still the Yard Hotel, even though it’s now reopened as Aethos, with a chic members’ club twist. We’ve never stayed in the rooms, but plenty of friends have and always said how good it was. Our experience? Countless evenings in their cosy living rooms, soaking up the dandy winter vibes, eclectic design, great music, and excellent drinks. Situated right next to the Navigli, it’s the perfect spot to start (or end) a night exploring Milan’s iconic canals.
What to do
VILLA NECCHI CAMPIGLIO
Villa Necchi Campiglio is pure refinement - a masterpiece of 1930s modernist architecture, designed by Piero Portaluppi for the Necchi sisters, part of Milan's industrial elite. Walking through its light-filled rooms, you can feel the history and quiet sophistication of another era. The garden is perfect for a coffee break, and the neighborhood itself is great to wander, with stunning palazzi at every turn. Tip: booking the private tour is a must.
Porta Monforte, Milan
ARMANI SILOS
Armani/Silos is a love letter to Giorgio’s iconic vision and a masterclass in elegance. Spread across four impeccably designed floors, it showcases the designer’s work and iconic pieces organized by themes rather than chronology (daywear, exoticism, color…) with each mannequin custom-made to fit its outfit. Housed in a sleek granary, the minimalist architecture and lighting perfectly complement the designs within. The rotating exhibitions are just as fabulous.
Tortona, Milan
FONDAZIONE PRADA
You’ve definitely seen the iconic mushrooms room, the whimsical Bar Luce, or the rooftop views of Fondazione Prada. But there's so much more to this place than Instagram moments. The foundation is a hub for contemporary art, with cinema screenings and ever-changing exhibitions that’ll have you contemplating art in a whole new way. And if you’re in town during Fashion Week you might just get lucky enough to catch one of the incredible show sets!
Lodi, Milan
LA TRIENNALE
La Triennale is Milan’s go-to spot for everything design and architecture. You can easily spend hours here learning about design, and exploring historical exhibits. It’s a cultural powerhouse, showcasing exhibitions that challenge your ideas about creativity and innovation. Make sure to save time after your visit and head to the rooftop for a drink with a view. And if you’re in the mood for a stroll, just step outside to Parco Sempione
Sempione, Milan
PARCO SEMPIONE
Castello until arco della paceParco Sempione is where Milan’s locals go to breathe. Stretching from the imposing Castello Sforzesco to the elegant Arco della Pace, it’s a green oasis that somehow manages to feel both vast and intimate. It's the spot for picnics, joggers, and those moments of quiet amid the city's chaos. If you time it right, the sunset makes everything glow.
Sempione, Milan
ZONA MAGENTA
Here’s a stroll to take if you want to see a more residential side of the city. Between Cadorna and Conciliazione, it’s the perfect walk to admire the stunning palazzi and dreamy balconies. This is Milan at its best: quiet and effortlessly stylish. Start at De Santis for the best panini and make a quick stop at Marchesi for pastries. Don’t miss the chance to see The Last Supper at Santa Maria delle Grazie (book in advance). And you can finish, at Da Tommasi for a coffee or a drink.
Magenta, Milan
ZONA SANT AMBROGGIO
Amongst Milan’s most historic and enchanting neighborhoods. Le Cinque Vie are known as the “350 meters most hated by taxi drivers.” In summer, these streets are hard to navigate as crowds gather around Chiosco Mentana, B Cafe, and Flow, the classic meeting points to grab a drink before dinner. By day, the area is quieter but no as charming, with its maze of cobblestone streets, dotted with art galleries and hidden boutiques. One favorite? Wait And See, a true colour gem!
Sant’Ambroggio, Milan
BRERA & THE PINACOTECA
Yes, Brera might be tourist central, but even locals can’t resist its charm (except during Salone del Mobile when it has become impossible to walk). At the heart of it all is the Pinacoteca di Brera, home of some of Italy’s greatest hits in art like Raphael’s Marriage of the Virgin or Caravaggio’s Supper at Emmaus. The neighborhood feels like a little village tucked into the city. Just a tip: watch out for the restaurants on Via Fiori Chiari, many of them are tourist traps, choose wisely!
Brera, Milan
VILLA CLEA
Once a gritty body shop, Villa Clea has been reimagined into a space that bridges contemporary art with its industrial past. Now serving as both an exhibition venue and an artist residence, it offers a platform for emerging talents to create and showcase their work. With its bright, minimalist interiors contrasting its rugged exterior, Villa Clea is a testament to Milan’s spirit of reinvention. Hosting exclusive events, it invites visitors by appointment for intimate explorations.
Corvetto, Milan
GIPSOTECA FUMAGALLI & DOSSI
A hidden gem in Milan’s artistic landscape, dedicated to the preservation and celebration of plaster casts as a unique art form. Born from the vision of its founders, this atelier-turned-gallery breathes new life into the centuries-old tradition of gesso sculpture, blending classical techniques with contemporary perspectives. Located in a historic workshop, the space showcases intricate replicas and original works that highlight the craft’s enduring beauty.
Moscova, Milan
MASSIMO DE CARLO GALLERY
This is one of Milan’s leading contemporary art spaces, renowned for its bold exhibitions and commitment to emerging and established artists alike. Founded by Massimo De Carlo in 1987, the gallery has played a pivotal role in shaping Milan’s modern art scene, becoming a beacon for international collectors and art enthusiasts. The gallery presents a dynamic program of exhibitions that encompass a wide range of media.
Città Studi, Milan
MILANO FASHION LIBRARY
Founded in 2007, this place is one of the most important fashion libraries in the world, offering an extensive collection of fashion-related books, magazines, and multimedia materials. The library provides a rich archive of fashion contemporary trends, and design concepts, with all the latest fashion publications and exclusive materials. It’s a bit far from the city center, but easily accessible via the S5 metro line if you are up for the trip.
Vanzago, Italy
VILLA BORSANI
Located just outside Milan in Varedo, is a stunning example of modernist architecture designed by the renowned Italian architect Osvaldo Borsani in the 1950s. It was originally built as the Borsani family’s residence, and it is still a private property that opens to the public through private events, exhibitions, and tours. Visits are typically by appointment only.so it's best to check ahead or book in advance if you're planning to go.
Varedo, Italy
What to Taste
Missori, Milano
€€€
A place that fits every moment: family lunches, catchups with friends and romantic dates. The courtyard is stunning and the interior has such a warm atmosphere. The whole menu is excellent, but the Bologneses are the ultimate icons. The staff is fantastic too! One night with friends, we ended up chatting until 3 a.m., completely losing track of time. When we apologized to Stefano, he just laughed and said, “Please don’t worry. This is a place for you to enjoy. Stay as long as you want.” And honestly, that’s the spirit of Dal Bolognese
Brera, Milano
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La Latteria, a beloved Milanese institution known for its authentic 1950s trattoria charm, has reopened after a brief closure. Renowned for its simple yet iconic dishes, like spaghetti al limone e peperoncino, it was a hotspot for locals and international luminaries alike, from Franca Sozzani to Miuccia Prada. Closed in 2023 when its owners retired, the historic restaurant has been revived by Vittoria Loro Piana, retaining its original nine-table setup and no-reservations policy.
Porta Romana, Milano
€€
This place has got those classic cantina vibes, old-school charm, loud chatter, and an atmosphere that’s all about good food and good company - no frills. They serve seafood that's both fresh and high quality, all at prices that won’t break the bank. Now, here's the catch: trying to book a table over the phone is almost impossible because they hardly ever pick up. Your best bet is to swing by in person to make a reservation - totally worth the effort!
Risorgimento, Milano
€€€
Hands down our favorite out of all the Giacomo restaurants. While Da Giacomo is the most famous, Giacomo Rosticceria is perfect for a casual lunch, and Giacomo Arengario is the fanciest, the Bistrot has this elevated charm that makes it stand out. Inside, it’s like stepping into a vintage library, perfect for a cosy dinner with a sophisticated twist. Their cotoletta alla Milanese is truly the best in town.
Missori, Milano
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If your dreams are filled with cacio e pepe, gricia, or amatriciana, then Felice a Testaccio is your go-to spot. This renowned Roman restaurant, originally established in 1936, expanded its legacy by opening a Milan location in early 2018. Here, authenticity reigns supreme. No gimmicky cheese wheel presentations, just genuine flavors that have stood the test of time. Start with their must-try artichokes (carciofi), and let the meal unfold. When in Rome… or Milan!
Quadronno, Milano
€
A true Milanese institution, and our absolute favorite spot for breakfast. Here’s the move: order two brioche al prosciutto cotto, a cappuccio, and a freshly squeezed orange juice. If you’re in the mood for something sweet, their counter is a treasure trove of little biscuits to choose from. Other good old-school spots we recommend: Bar Quadronno, Sissi, and Pasticceria Cucchi … but Gattullo takes the crown !
Porta Romana, Milano
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Pastamadre is a charming little spot, nice yet unpretentious, and surprisingly easy to snag a table. The menu changes often to highlight the freshest ingredients nature has to offer. Pair your dish with a glass of wine from their thoughtful list, and you’re in for a treat. And save room for dessert, they’re all excellent, especially the gourmet coffee served with a small, perfectly crisp cannolo. A true gem for a relaxed meal around Porta Romana.
Porta Venezia, Milano
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Bar Basso is the kind of place that makes you wonder if you’ve stepped onto the set of a perfectly retro Italian film. The birthplace of the iconic Negroni Sbagliato, the bar still serves it in its signature oversized glass, a charmingly impractical yet irresistible tradition. The crowd is a mix of cashmere-clad sciure, teens on their first cocktails, Milanese trendsetters, and visitors. During Fashion Week or Salone it transforms into the place to be, buzzing with energy and packed!
Moscova, Milano
€€€
ASVN is like that effortlessly cool friend you secretly find a little intimidating. It’s stylish with a concept centered around wines and charcuterie. Perfect for aperitivo or drinks after dinner, this place shines with its beautiful courtyard that makes you want to stay forever. But here’s the kicker: they won’t let you. Tables are yours for a limited time, and before you know it, you’re being politely (or not so politely) shuffled out. Still, for those fleeting moments, it’s a great location.
Brera, Milano
€€€
N’Ombra de Vin is THE Milanese spot to see and be seen. On warm nights, the crowd spills outside - partly because the bar upstairs is small, but mostly because everyone wants to be seen and exchange side-eye glances to see who's around. Downstairs, it’s a different story: a spacious wine cellar lined with over 3,000 bottles. Getting that coveted glass of wine and salumi in the evening might be tricky, but if you’re lucky enough to get a table, the service is fast and spot-on.
Brera, Milano
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Right in the heart of Brera, Trattoria Torre di Pisa is the go-to when you want somewhere easy, central, and perfect for big groups without overthinking a reservation too long in advance. It’s relaxed, not too fancy with good food that hits the spot. The staff is also nice and unmistakably Italian. One time, I couldn’t finish my tiramisu, and the waiter actually came over and put the last spoonful in my mouth. Was it endearing or a bit much? Still not sure it makes for one unforgettable story.
Moscova, Milano
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Dry on Via Solferino is the perfect spot if you’re craving good pizza but still want a fun night out. With its dim lighting and metropolitan vibe, it offers a sophisticated young atmosphere. The pizzas are top-notch, with the classics but also their own toppings like pumpkin cream, stewed onion, spicy jalapeno honey, raw Bra sausage... And if you’re sharing, don’t miss the Vitello Tonnato focaccia. Pair it with their carefully crafted cocktails, and you’ve got the ideal night.
Missori, Milano
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Si Ma is our favorite bar in Milan: a cozy, narrow townhouse spread across multiple floors. The owner, Sina, brought an international flair from New York and the cocktails are simply the best. If Andrea is still behind the bar when you visit, you’re in for a treat. He’s a genius at crafting the most special drinks. Just let him know what you're in the mood for, and he’ll whip up something just for you. One of those spots where you always feel like you're getting a personal experience.
Duomo, Milano
€€€
This iconic spot has been serving up cocktails since 1915, and stepping inside is like entering a Milanese time capsule. Yes, it’s a little corny, right in the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, but that’s what makes it a classic. With its tiled floors, wood-paneled bar, and bowtied bartenders, this old-school elegant spot is here the famous Campari soda was first served in 1932. So, if you're in doubt, go all in on the Milanese vibes, order a Negroni, and enjoy the atmosphere.
San Babila, Milano
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While the Paper Moon brand may have gone global, Paper Moon Giardino is the OG, the one that started it all, and it still has that magnetic charm that made it legendary. It’s a local gem, a world away from the touristy hustle of nearby spots like Salumaio di Montenapoleone (gorgeous yes but let’s not talk about the crowd or the service). This place is where Milanese families gather on weekends, where the atmosphere is relaxed but still chic.
Risorgimento, Milano
€€
If you're craving pizza in Milan, this is the spot we'd send you to, without a second thought. The pizzas have that perfect thin crust that melts in your mouth, and the menu is packed with options. The ingredients are top-quality, and they even offer plenty gluten-free choices. Many locals swear it’s the best pizza in town, though some do whisper that it’s a bit pricey for what it should cost in Italy (around 15-25€ per pie). It's always packed, but that’s just part of the appeal.
Città Studi, Milano
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Palinurobar is a trendy natural wine bar with an artsy vibe, not far from the iconic Bar Basso - the perfect stop for a bit of bar hopping. With over 500 natural wines to choose from, a carefully crafted Mediterranean-inspired small dishes menu, and a curated soundtrack that ranges from jazz to funk. The name “Palinurobar” comes from the song by Neapolitan artist Nino Buonocore, a nod to the place’s musical roots.
TRIPPA
Porta Romana, Milano
€€€
It’s now been a decade since Trippa opened its doors, and Diego Rossi brought something truly special to Milan with this trattoria, with simple, yet gastronomically rich dishes. It’s one of those places everyone tells you that you have to go, but securing a reservation is trickier than booking at Bottura’s Osteria Francescana. Somehow, the opportunity to visit Trippa hasn’t come for us yet. Please, if you do manage to get a table, consider it a victory and go for us.
Ticinese, Milano
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Hidden away in a charming courtyard, you’ll need to buzz in (don’t forget to book ahead), and, once you’re through that door, you’re in for a treat. It’s here, at the end of the secret courtyard, that the Milanese aperitivo takes real meaning. No chips or soggy focaccia here. By ordering just one drink, you’re treated to a feast: delicious pastas, meats, vegetables, and more. It’s the place to be if you want to rub elbows with the city’s young crowd, thanks to the nearby universities.
Selvanesco, Milano
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Al Garghet is a bit off the beaten path, so you'll need a car to get there, but it's totally worth the journey. This beloved spot draws Milanese in all year round — whether it's the cozy winter vibes with Christmas decorations or the outdoor courtyard in summer. Known for serving up the biggest cotoletta (the famous "elephant ear" version) and a great risotto Milanese, it's the perfect place for a long, leisurely meal where time slows down and the food takes center stage.
BAR PARADISO
Porta Romana, Milano
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Bar Paradiso has quickly gained popularity since it recently opened, and there's been a lot of buzz around it. The story goes like this: Maurizio Tentella started sharing his favorite places to eat in Italy years ago, and then Saro Pomario joined in, turning Maurizio's vision into a cool agency that blended fashion with delicious Italian treats at events. So, when these two decided to create a real-life hangout spot, you just knew it was going to be the ultimate place to go.
BAR NICO
Città Studi, Milano
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Another story where fashion meets local neighborhood. Chiara Pino and Riccardo Ganelli, both moda industry veterans realized they wanted something different. So, they opened a wine bar and named after their adorable Afghan greyhound, Nico.. It’s got a bit of a Nordic vibe, with white walls, a marble side counter, and plenty of room for conversation. Despite leaving the fashion world behind, Chiara and Riccardo still attract faces from the industry, who often settle in for a drink.
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